A custom signet ring is one of the most personal pieces of jewelry you can commission. Traditionally carved by hand, signet rings are now often designed in CAD, printed in castable wax or resin, and cast in gold or silver. At eCadCam, our jewelry services team designs signet rings for jewelers, designers, and private clients in Los Angeles. Here is what to decide before modeling begins.
Choosing the Signet Face Shape
The face, or “table,” is the flat top that carries the design. Common shapes include:
- Oval: the classic choice, works for monograms and family crests.
- Round: balanced and modern, great for single initials or symbols.
- Cushion or square: bold and contemporary, often used for men’s rings.
- Rectangular or octagonal: suits longer text or geometric designs.
The face size should suit the wearer’s finger and the complexity of the artwork. A detailed crest needs more room than a single letter.
Engraved, Raised, or Reverse (Seal) Designs
Engraved (recessed)
The design is cut into the face. It is the most common approach and wears well over time.
Raised (relief)
The design stands up from the surface. It has a dramatic look but the high points wear faster with daily use.
Reverse or seal engraving
Traditional signet rings were used to press wax seals, so the design is carved in mirror image. If you want a functional seal, tell your designer, because the artwork must be flipped and the depth carefully controlled.
Engraving Depth and Detail
In CAD we can model engravings directly into the ring, which means the design is cast in metal rather than added later. Depth must be enough to remain readable after casting and polishing, but not so deep that it weakens the face. Very fine lines can blur during casting, so we often simplify artwork slightly or recommend that the finest details be hand-engraved or laser-engraved after casting.
Shank Profile and Comfort
The shank is the band portion. Signet rings often taper from a heavier shoulder near the face down to a thinner band at the bottom. A comfort-fit interior (slightly domed) makes a heavy ring much easier to wear. Shoulder shape, whether sharp and architectural or soft and rounded, sets the overall style.
Weight and Metal Choice
Signet rings can be substantial, which affects both comfort and cost, especially in gold or platinum. In CAD we can hollow the underside of the face (called a “back cut” or “scoop”) to reduce weight while keeping the ring looking solid from the outside. Because the CAD model gives an accurate volume, we can estimate metal weight before casting, which helps you budget.
Popular metals include 14k and 18k gold in yellow, white, or rose, sterling silver, and platinum. Each has different density, so the same design will weigh different amounts in each metal.
Adding Stones or Mixed Elements
Some modern signet rings feature a flat stone face such as onyx or lapis, a small set diamond, or enamel. These can be planned in CAD so the seat for the stone or enamel well is cast accurately.
The Process at eCadCam
- Send your artwork, monogram, or crest and your ring size.
- We build the CAD model and send renders for approval.
- We print a resin or wax prototype for try-on if desired.
- The final model is printed in castable material and cast through lost-wax casting.
- The ring is cleaned up, polished, and finished.
Plan Your Signet Ring in Los Angeles
eCadCam has more than 22 years of experience in jewelry CAD and casting preparation. Bring your idea to 4212 San Fernando Rd, Glendale, CA 91204, call 213.489.1173, or request a quote and we will help design a signet ring that lasts for generations.